Weihnachtsmärkte 2024: Week 0

Even though there are some actual days between the fourth Sunday of Advent and Christmas Eve this year, we’ve started the tour of Weihnacht/Advent/Christkindl/Winter markets before the first Sunday of Advent, with a pair of villages.

Note: “Private” means sponsored by a business or similar private organization, as opposed to being sponsored by a city or other government entity. Not a big deal for us, but it matters to some people.

Adventsmarkt im Klosterbiergarten Biburg (private, one weekend)

Saw this one advertised on FB and decided to drive up the Deutsche Hopfenstraße on a cold, snowy Friday afternoon, past all the empty hops fields and into a small village in the Abensberger Spargelland. As we rolled up to the parking by the 12th century abbey church and saw this tree and heard brass music, we were pretty excited.

The Biergarten itself was small, and the only food was from their kitchen–lots of savory options, but not enough sweet treats for Mr Radish’s tastes. He had a spiral-cut fried potato, and I enjoyed a half-meter-long Feuerwurst, which had some chili inside but was more seasoned than hot. Where they shone was the variety of different flavors for Glühwein (“mulled” wine, hot and spiced) and alcohol-free hot fruit punches. I can’t remember if I’ve had Blueberry Glühwein before–I may have bought a bottle during one of the Lockdown Christmases–but this one was excellent. Plus, since it was all organized by the professional Biergarten staff, it was very organized and efficient.

We left after about an hour–our feet got cold, and I think we were the only people there from out of town. I’d like to stop back at this church during daylight hours sometime when we’re in the area.

Adventsmarkt Fahrenzhausen (city, one weekend)

Found this one off the county tourism website, and went on Sunday afternoon. Fahrenzhausen is a village about twenty minutes away, and one weekend a year all the local clubs and teams set up at the library/elementary school for some fundraising. Probably going to be the cheapest Glühwein we find all season, at 2,50€, and our crepes were made by some moms who had brought their griddles from home. It was chaotic and inefficient, but charming.

What’s special about this one is 1) a book market and 2) a big room in the library was set up with tables, so older people could enjoy treats and hot drinks without having to stand in the cold. There were kids all over, and they were happy and relaxed, on their own usual stomping grounds. The items for sale were all handmade.

Once again, we were probably the only people there from “out of town” but I loved the atmosphere. It made me homesick for a time and place that no longer exists.